Archive | October 2017

1/4 Bikinis & Underwear

 

This week in dolly patterns: 1/4 undies!

1/4 Lingerie!  I liked the previous smaller sizes, but I like this one even more.  It was a little tougher to figure out, but I learned some new techniques for stabilizing stretchy materials (as in, keeping little bikini tops from riding up over the boobs…) so that some parts stretch while others fit snugly.  And of COURSE that’s all incorporated into the pattern, so you can learn it too and apply it to any other projects it might help! Check it out in ze shop now

There are no tights in this one, but there’s more cut options in the bras/panties.  I think it works out.  The tights problem is a logistical one, because see those 3 dolls on the cover?  Their feet range from nubs less than an inch to properly proportionate feet around 2″ in length, and some dolls are significantly longer/curvier in the legs than others.  They cannot share the same tights.  Definitely no, not even with the stretchiest fabric. It’s a pity, but I’m sure I’ll develop a workaround in the future.  It might just take a couple of pages of variations ^^;

Have a good weekend and an especially fun Halloween!

 

Medium Girl Underwear & Bikinis Pattern

Medium Girl Bikinis & Underwear

Curvy Bikinis & Underwear

Two patterns this week!  This wasn’t a terribly hard pattern to make because I could go from cutting the fabric for a test pattern to finished piece in 15 minutes or less, which is nice.  Sewing a test pattern for something with gathering and asymmetric seams, ugh, hours wasted just to see what I need to tweak.  But 15 minutes?  I barely care if I haven’t gotten it right yet! 

You can get the Medium Tall/Classic/Petite version Here, and the curvy version Here.

I often refer to ‘fabric physics’ and how things change subtly from one size to the next.  For example, the PS size pattern triangle top didn’t need darts to fit.  At just 1″ taller, the M girl size does!  Even between the regular M pattern and the curvy edition, there were some things that were very close to not working, like non-stretch panties.  When I get to a 1/4 scale version of this pattern, things are going to start looking a LOT different.  Why is this? 

Simple trick: Take a piece of paper and put it over something curved.  To keep the paper smooth over the curve, folds will have to be made in the paper (like darts in fabric).  Now the interesting thing is, the darts don’t start to form at the top of the curve.  There’s an area where the flat, non-stretchy paper can fit over a curve just fine–but it’s not a very big area.  This is why tiny dolls like MH that have a butt less than an inch wide can wear non-stretch fabric as panties just fine when people definitely cannot.  That’s fabric physics.  At different sizes, the same materials behave differently, so the design has to be adjusted. 

 

PS Bikinis & Underwear

PS Bikinis & Underwear

This week’s pattern has been long requested!  While I’ve done elaborate lingerie in the Cabaret pack, a lot of people wanted more styles with a focus on casual underwear styles… which coincidentally are about the same as beach styles, depending on the fabric you use. 

Therefore, in this pack, you can find 7 different styles of top, 3 different styles of panty, as well as leggings and tights.  AND, if that wasn’t enough variety, I also included stretch and non-stretch pattern pieces so you can do all the different top and panty styles in whatever kind of fabric you want! 

I also tried something new in this pattern that I may or may not keep doing depending on feedback: I included two sets of the pattern, at 100% and 125% size to help out the folks who have trouble resizing at home.  So if you find this unnecessary or totally awesome, let me know 😉

NYC Fabric shopping spree!

My birthday is this week, so we did something I’ve been wanting to do for a while: raid the fabric shops of Manhattan’s Garment District!

Like many cities, NYC has a lot of neighborhoods with distinct specialties.  A little bit south of Times Square is the Garment District, where most of the fashion industry is located.  Not ALL of it, but quite a lot so the stores in the area cater to it.  TONS of massive fabric bazaar type stores where you basically have a room filled with rolls of fabric, like so:

Another place

I’ve been really hankering for some interesting fabrics.  Interesting textures, colors, etc.  Most of the ones I have I’ve already used, and while I like the “Cosplay by Yaya” fabrics that have been showing up at Joannes, I’ve noticed that they are replacing some of the weirder selections that I used to find.  I like weird sh*t. I find it inspiring. 

Also, I’ve been searching every damn fabric store across three states as well as the internet to get my hands on some brown vinyl/pleather.  You’d think that would be easy to find, with all the steampunk fashion out there, but nope!  All the brown stuff is fake suede, or weathered leather.  I want nice, supple, brown calfskin type fake leather.  I figured if there was ONE place I’d find it, it would be NYC.  And I did, but only after like, the 8th store. 

The other awesome thing to be easily found in the garment district and not so much anywhere else, is TRIM!

Whole stores dedicated to trim

so much trim

Ok, sure, you can actually find tons of trim in any fabric store.  But how much of that trim is doll-scale friendly?  Not so much! WHOLE STORES with nothing but spools of trim.  Ribbon, lace, cord.  OMG.  I came out of this store with a very small bag, but it was a very small bag full of yard and yards and yards of tiny goodness!

The drawback is that most of the fabrics in these stores, while great for runway haute couture and wedding gowns…not so great for casuals, or doll clothes.  But that’s OK, I still found a few gems, and I look forward to using them in upcoming designs.   And if I need more… I can always go back 😉

If you want to see more fabric store pics, I uploaded a whole bunch into a Flickr Album

Curvy 1/3 Simply Cute

1/3 Simply Cute Pattern

Down to the wire this week!  I was going to do something else, but had to come up with something last minute when plan #1 turned out to be way, way more complicated than I expected.  I went into Thursday barely closer to a finished pattern than I was on Monday ^^;

That’s the problem with the big dolls: at this size fabric physics do a shift so things that don’t work in ALL THE OTHER SIZES I sew for start to work (like linings) so patterns that are already tricky in tiny size become exponentially more difficult. 

…But not this one!  That’s why it’s called “Simply Cute”.  Friend came over with her daughter and I made her daughter’s Wellie Wisher (a size I don’t sew for) one of these dresses in 15 minutes after she picked out fabric–and that includes taking the measurements and doing the math for a new doll!  Whenever people ask what to start with, if they want casual clothes I point them towards “Basics” and when they want girly stuff I point them to “Simply Cute”

Check it out in the shop & enjoy!